Hailrazer - Modder, Restorer, Gamer

10.6″ In A Commercial Projector., 1080p, 480 lumens

So I decided to buy an Ask projector myself and mod it for the 10.6″ Mst kit.

I bought this projector on eBay for $100

It comes with a 575 watt Osram Hmi lamp, a 10″ 1024×768 Lcd, and a bunch of stuff.


Here are some pics. :

I bought the 10.6″ Mst kit from johnzo1995.

For those who don’t know, this is a 720p native 1080p capable Lcd. It has Hdmi, Vga, Component, and Composite inputs and is HDCP enabled. And it has an excellent picture.

So I started modding. I had to take out the 10″ Lcd and modify the frame for the 10.6″ . That required cutting it wider and masking off the top and bottom unused portions. This is how it turned out.

Then I had to take out the old controller board and install the new one.

Then I had to redo the Osd board in the top half of the projector to accommodate the new one. I also had to rewire the fan to work with the attic thermostat so it would continue running until it cooled down.

The finished front half with the new Lcd and Controller installed.

 

And now some screen shots.

These first are to show the color.

The image is 120″ diagonal with the projector 150″ from the screen.

And some shots from King Kong.

Overall I am quite happy with it.


I think I might have a little pressure on the Lcd from the metal holding it down.

It was a lot of work trying to rewire everything to get it working right and reworking the Lcd frame was interesting. But it was well worth it. It is throwing a surprisingly awesome bright picture., comparable to a commercial. And the bulbs are 1000 hour bulbs that can be replaced for less than $50.

Any questions feel free to ask.

Total costs:
Projector — $100
10.6″ Kit — $280
Precon — $15
Attic Thermostat — $18
—————————-
Total — $413

I stripped the 2 mirror layers off the back , but I didn’t touch the front layer. Don’t really see a need to right now. It’s plenty bright with good contrast and colors.

Also I just calculated lumen output.

Total lumens = 480

The fan is a standard 120v fan but it has 2 ground connections and 2 common connections. One had power all the time, so as soon as the projector started the fan started. The second was on a 2 minute delay circuit so after the projector turned off the fan would run for 2 minutes.

Now I thought the 2 minute delay circuit was built into the controller board. So i left the fan wired to the side where it started on projector start up, then i wired the other side to an attic thermostat so it would stay on after the projector turned off until it was cool. The problem was that the attic thermostat is not sensitive enough. so after the projector turns off the attic thermostat never turns the fan back on because the projector cools down before the sensor in the attic thermostat can kick the fans back on.

I was going to just leave the attic thermostat hooked up by itself but the darned thing is just not sensitive enough. It won’t turn on quick enough set at 78 degrees before the Lcd starts developing a black spot. And at 76 degrees it stays on all the time.

Now as I’m sitting at work I’m beginning to think the delay circuit might be the small circuit board next to the ballast board. So I will try to see if I can’t get the delay circuit back up and running by the end of this week.

The pre-con is roughly 140mm away from the fresnel and it is 80mm in diameter. The fresnels are roughly 37mm from the Lcd. The Lcd is about 10″ diagonal. The precon looks to be about 13-14mm thick. Lamp arc to precon distance is about 14mm.

Dazzla helped me to figure out that the Pre-Con is roughly an 80mm diameter, 135mm fl precon. The fresnels are glued together but from the distances, they should be 200mm and 300mm.

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